Renaissance Tours

Kings & Castles of Bohemia

Czech Republic
25 May - 8 June 2009
with Dr Jana Vytrhlik & Jolyon Warwick James

 


Český Krumlov

Take a fascinating journey deep into the heart of Bohemia which goes beyond the famous sites and cities to lift the lid on other wonderful and little-known fiefdoms. By day you will explore renowned UNESCO World Heritage sites like the historic centres of Prague and Český Krumlov, as well as enchanting villages and their ancient castles which have recently been returned to their former glory. At night experience local cuisine and wine. Meet the new generation of the families who have recently reclaimed their heritage and have opened their magnificent castles and treasures to visitors.

The tour will be led by the Czech-born art historian Dr Jana Vytrhlik of the Powerhouse Museum and antique silver expert and historian Jolyon Warwick James, who will introduce you to the extraordinary collections of art, textiles and armoury housed in these castles.

Special highlights include a private viewing of the Lobkowicz and other art collections. There will be behind-the-scenes and curator-led visits to the Jewish Museum and the Decorative Arts Museum in Prague, the collection of Bohemian Gothic art at Hluboká Castle, and the armoury collections within the castles of Konopištĕ and Český Krumlov.

This tour offers a unique opportunity to discover the spectrum of the Czech way of life – art, culture and gastronomy - as experienced by their kings, princes and paupers!

Preliminary itinerary
(to be confirmed at the end of September 2008)

Mon 25 May 2009 - Arrive Prague
Arrive Prague and transfer to your hotel. This evening, join Jana Vytrhlik, Jolyon Warwick James and your fellow group members at a special welcome reception. (Welcome reception)

Tue 26 May - Prague
Begin your discovery with a walk through Prague’s Old Town and over the gothic Charles Bridge, built in 1347. Your steps will follow the Bohemian kings’ historical coronation route to Prague Castle. Here, in the Royal Palace, is the starting point for the theme of the ‘King and Castles of Bohemia’ tour. The castle complex, dating from the 9th century, looks out over the city witnessing the fortunes of many of Bohemia’s Kings, Princes and its people. The Castle has incorporated the Palace of the powerful Catholic Lobkowicz family since the beginning of the 17th century. Here you will dine in the Lobkowicz Palace Restaurant and enjoy a private viewing of the Lobkowicz Palace collection of dynastic treasures - paintings by Bruegel and Canalletto, a large collection of arms and amour, musical instruments, ceramics, silver and manuscripts related to the patronage of Beethoven. (BL)

Wed 27 May - Prague
Today, a brief journey will take you north of Prague to visit another Lobkowicz property, Nelahozeves Castle, housing a magnificent collection of old masters. The chateau is one of Bohemia’s purest Renaissance buildings. Owned by the Lobkowicz family since 1623, it was seized by the communists and later restituted after the fall of the regime in 1989. Lunch with a wine tasting of the dynasty’s own vintages will be served in Nelahozeves castle restaurant before you travel to nearby Okoř Castle. This pile is essentially the ruins of a once magnificent Renaissance residence. Initially a gothic chapel dating from 1260 -70, by 1359 it had become the fortified residence of František of Rokycany – a friend and ally of King Charles IV (who gave his name to the bridge in Prague). Remodelled in the Renaissance style it was forfeited during the 30 years war (1618 -1648) and given to the Jesuits who were evicted in 1773 whereupon it fell into ruin. (BL)

Thu 28 May - Prague
Your last day of discovery in Prague includes a morning visit to Prague Decorative Arts Museum. Here you will to see the objects once used by kings, princes and other of fortune and which were to be found in their castles and palaces. The Museum holds Bohemian and European decorative arts as well as Czech arts, crafts, applied art, and designs. Notable are the collections of glass (old and new) and clocks. At lunchtime you will be tasting an authentic kosher lunch at the Jewish Town Hall of Prague. In the afternoon you will visit the world famous Jewish Museums and Jewish Quarter with an expertly guided tour. Many Bohemian castle townships included Jewish communities, and drew on their skills and trades. These have now largely disappeared except in Prague where the historical synagogues, the cemetery, and the Jewish Museum document these lost Bohemian communities. Later in the day, and just a short walk from your hotel, you will enjoy a unique performance of Don Giovanni by the National Marionette Theatre. This opera was composed by Mozart and conducted by him in Prague in 1787 at its debut performance. The presentation by marionettes reflects this traditional cultural art form in Bohemia. (BL)

Fri 29 May - Písek
Leaving our Prague base, an hour on the bus takes us south to Březnice Castle. This was originally a gothic fortress, rebuilt during 16-17th century becoming a Renaissance chateau. On your exclusive tour of the castle you will see the oldest Renaissance library in Bohemia, dating from 1558. The castle was confiscated from the owners due to suspected German collaboration in1945, and never was returned, being now run by state. In the afternoon you will continue your journey south to the historical town Písek, famous for the Písek Castle and its gothic bridge. Dating from the mid 13th century, the castle was built as the King’s residential castle (Premislas II). The old fabric is now integrated with the new and it is used as a municipal Museum (award winning). There are displays of the local industries important to this castle’s life and its township’s prosperity eg goldmining, fishing, agriculture etc. The bridge dates from the late 13th century and is the oldest preserved stone bridge in Bohemia. (BL)

Sat 30 May - Písek
In the morning you travel to the attractively moated Blatná Castle, originally a gothic fortress with a later Renaissance wing designed by royal architect Benedikt Rijt around 1530. It was partly rebuilt in the mid 19th century and there is currently Interesting restoration in progress. Surviving murals date from the middle of the 15th century. There are attractive grounds with deer (tame and feedable), peacocks, and boating on the lake (moat). This is a very interesting privately owned residential castle, confiscated and then returned to the owners after the fall of communism. You will have the opportunity of meeting the owners and will have a leisurely lunch in the castle. (BL)

Sun 31 May - Písek
On a cliff top promontory surrounded by water, Orlík Castle was built on a mid 13th century site. Early in 19th century, Prince Karel Schwarzenberg altered it to its imposing present neo-Gothic structure. It is home of the Orlík branch of the Schwarzenberg family and you will have a private guided tour of its fine collection of Empire furniture, old masters, weapons, military uniforms and other militaria. We transfer from Orlik to our next castle by boat. “Aboard ship” we have a leisurely pic-nic lunch disembarking at Zvíkov Castle. This interesting semi– ruined, originally 13th century, building was restored in late19th century. However it fell into ruin and its fortunes make an interesting comparison with Orlik. (B, packed Lunch, D)

Mon 01 June - Hluboká Castle
Brewing was an essential part of castle life! České Budějovice town received Royal permission (from Premislas II) for brewing in 1265. It has produced beer ever since – from the famous Budweiser brewery. Here you tour the brewery, sample the beer and have lunch en route from our previous Pisek base to your next Hotel destination situated within Hluboka castle walls! (BL)

Tue 02 June - Hluboká Castle
Wake up in a castle! Built on an earlier site, Hluboká Castle dates from 1840’s – the whim of Prince Johann Adolf II Schwarzenberg. Intentionally resembling Windsor Castle, it is an example of the enormous mid 19th century wealth of the largest landowners in Bohemia. It houses vast state collections of furniture, paintings, porcelain, arms and gothic art and artefacts. It has a magnificent English park with rare European plant species. How were the inhabitants of a castle fed? Your exclusive tour will include the Important and fascinating original kitchens of 19th and early 20th century - still in use up to 1947. This Schwarzenberg property was not restituted and is now run by the state. Our Hotel Štekl lies safely within the castles walls. (BD)

Wed 03 June - Hluboká Castle
Founded in the middle of the 13th century, rebuilt and enlarged during Renaissance and Baroque periods Český Krumlov Castle was owned by Rozmberk family from 1302 – 1602. Later, it was in the hands of the Schwarzenbergs from 1719 till 1945. It was then confiscated, not restituted and is now run by the state. We visit this vast castle and its collections and have time to roam the town‘s cobbled streets and alleys, and select an attractive riverside lunch spot. In the afternoon you travel to Rozmberk Castle, one of the oldest castles in South Bohemia, dating from the 13th century. It was the seat of the Rozmberk family, the most powerful in Bohemia after the king. In1612 they moved to Český Krumlov. Perched high on a promontory above a sharp bend in the Vltava river, Rozmberk Castle is surrounded by forest. It is a good example of a castle with small satellite township, and has the remnants of a Jewish community (cemetery). The last owners, the Buquoy’s died out and in 1920’s the castle reverted to the state who administer it. After a tour of the castle and its collections you dine in a Rozmberk restaurant. The menu reflects what the river and the surrounding forest yields – a vital source of local sustenance in the Middle Ages. (BD) 

 


Rozmberk Castle

Thu 04 June - Jindřichův Hradec
In 1583 Vilem of Rozmberk built Kratochvíle Castle. This unequalled Renaissance Italian Bohemian hunting lodge is your morning’s tour. Original interiors are intact, including murals. Look out (and up) for an elephant and a very early depiction of a rhinoceros – they are on the ceiling. Original settings include dining, the library, and the chapel. There are splendid ornamental gardens and water surrounds. It was in Schwarzenberg ownerships from 1719 to 1922, and now state owned and run. We head for our next base in Jindřichův Hradec a delightful mediaeval town with your centrally located hotel situated in the square. (BL)

Fri 05 June - Jindřichův Hradec
Jindřichův Hradec Castle and medieval town represent a tour theme summary of Bohemian castle life, development and function. The castle has parts still extant from the gothic, renaissance, baroque and up to 19th century. There are matching original interiors and examples of castle industries, and we visit the nearby tapestry workshop. Particularly notable are the mediaeval kitchen and renaissance pavilion – and the dungeon! The energetic can climb the tower. We explore all facets with expertly guided tours and need all day to do it! The castle is state owned. (BD)

Sat 06 June - Jindřichův Hradec
In the morning we visit and tour the water-surrounded Červená Lhota Castle. Originally a 14th century gothic water fortress, it was rebuilt in mid 19th century as a small chateau. Confiscated complete with contents from the owners in 1945, it is now state run. It has extraordinary charm and romanticism. This is enhanced by its miniature format, water surrounds and sense of completely habitability. It has a very interesting survival story during the communist regime! On our way back to lunch we visit a ropemaking workshop - another industry important to “castle life”. The afternoon is free. (BL)

Sun 07 June - Prague
Your final destination is another example of a living symbiosis between a castle (cliff top) and a township (cf Ro?mberk). Český Šternberk Castle has been in the Šternberk family since 1479. From 1948 to 1989 there was an awkward period of communist “administration” when, uniquely, the owners were allowed to live and work in “their” confiscated castle. It is now fully restituted with all its interiors and collections, which we tour, and is lived in by the owners. We have our farewell lunch at the Šternberk castle, before we transfer to our Prague hotel. (BL)

Mon 08 June - Return
Tour ends after breakfast. Transfer to the airport for your return flight to Australia. (B)

YOUR HOTELS* * * *
Prague - K+K Central
Písek - Hotel Biograf
Hluboká Castle - Hotel Štekl
Jindřichův Hradec - Concertino Hotel