Textiles & Cultures of Eastern India
India
Kalamkari textile
Travel through Eastern India with Christina Sumner – Principal Curator Design & Society at the Powerhouse Museum – along a meandering route from south to north. With each step, see the stories of India etched into its magnificent architecture as well as the textiles, arts and crafts of the many people you will meet along the way.
Your journey starts in ancient Chennai (formerly Madras) then heads northwards to Andhra Pradesh, home of the beautiful Kalamkari hand-painted textiles. Continue to Orissa, renowned for its fine ikat weaving techniques, then explore the Kantha quilt tradition in West Bengal. Finally, visit
the holy city of Varanasi on the banks of the mighty Ganges, an important pilgrimage site and centre for exquisite silk brocades, before your journey draws to a close in the country’s capital – Delhi.
From your experiences and what you see along the way, you will learn how history and the environment have shaped the art, craft and textile traditions of Eastern India, and how the impact and influence of traders, foreign invaders and significant events have helped change the course of that history. This is a journey which will intrigue and delight you at every turn.
Itinerary
Saturday, 21 February 2009 - Arrive Chennai
Arrive at Chennai's International Airport late this evening (approximately 10pm). On arrival, meet your tour leader and local guide and transfer to your hotel.
Sunday, 22 February - Chennai
Start your exploration of Chennai with an orientation tour of the city. Your tour will pass by historic as well as contemporary places of interest, such as the Victoria Art Gallery, Bronze Gallery and Madras Museum. Continue through Egmore to Georgetown, stopping at Fort St George which houses the State Legislature and the Secretariat, St. Mary's Church (the oldest Anglican church in India, built in 1680) and the fort museum. Later, take a drive along the edge of Chennai’s Marina Beach where you will see some of the most beautiful buildings in the city such as the University of Madras, the Senate House, Chepauk Palace, Presidency College and the Ice House (an old ice storehouse which was later converted into a women’s hostel). Visit the 17th century San Thome Cathedral, which derives its name from St Thomas, the apostle of Christ who is believed to have come to Madras some time during 52 AD and to have been killed on St Thomas Mount just outside the city in 78 AD. Your final stop is at the colourful Kapaleeswarar Temple in Mylapore, devoted to the Hindu Lord Shiva.
Enjoy a special welcome lunch at a local restaurant, then drive to Dakshina Chitra, set on ten undulating acres overlooking the Bay of Bengal, south of Chennai. Literally meaning ‘a picture of the south’, Dakshina Chitra is a centre for the living traditions of art, folk performing arts, craft and architecture of India with an emphasis on the traditions of South India. Compare the traditional domestic architecture of Tamil Nadu and neighbouring Kerala and Andhra Pradesh, and visit the Craft Bazaar. (BL)
Monday, 23 February - Kanhipuram / Chennai
This morning after breakfast, enjoy a full day excursion to Kanchipuram (also known as ‘Kanchi’), a major seat of Tamil learning and an important place of pilgrimage for Buddhists, Jains and Hindus. First visit the great Ekambareswarar temple and the 8th century Kailasanathar temple – the oldest and grandest structure in the town. Later, spend the afternoon learning about the Kanchi silk weaving tradition which dates back more than 400 years and produces the best silk saris in the country. Raw mulberry silk, washed in the waters of Kanchipuram and dyed in superb colours, gives Kanchi saris their lovely texture and lustre. Typically, the deep palla and borders are woven in a contrasting colour with golden brocade highlights. (BL)
Tuesday, 24 February - Chennai to Tirupati
After breakfast, set out on a journey in to the state of Andhra Pradesh and the town of Tirupati. This afternoon visit Sri Venkatshvara Temple situated in the Tirumala Hills above the town. The seven ‘sacred hills’ of Tirumala are believed to symbolise the seven-headed serpent god Adisesha, on whose coils Vishnu sleeps. This is the richest and most visited temple in India. It eclipses Jerusalem and Rome in the number of pilgrims it attracts - around 25,000 per day and up to 100,000 on festival days. (BD)
Wednesday, 25 February - Sri Kalahasti / Tirupati
A full day excursion to Sri Kalahasti, located on the banks of the River Swarnamukhi. This town is home to the beautiful kalamkari hand-painted textile tradition and you will spend the morning learning about the craft and visiting a Kalamkari workshop. Historically, this region was the source of some of the finest painted cotton textiles exported over the centuries to Southeast Asia and Europe. Kalamkari means simply ‘pen work’ as a brush or pen is the traditional tool used to draw and paint both floral and figurative images with dyes, mordants and resists.
This afternoon visit the Sri Kalahasti temple, after which the town is named. Legend tells that the temple is named for the three animals that attained divinity through worshipping Lord Shiva - Sri (spider), Kala (serpent) and hasti (elephant). The temple is among the most impressive Shiva temples in India and features an enormous, ancient gopuram (tower) over the main gate which soars to a height of 36.5m. Return to Tirupati for dinner and overnight. (BLD)
Thursday, 26 February - Tirupati to Hyderabad
After a leisurely morning, transfer to the airport for a short flight to Hyderabad, the capital of Andhra Pradesh and the fifth largest city in India. On arrival, take a short orientation tour of the city en route to your hotel. (BD)
Friday, 27 February - Hyderabad
A full day excursion to Ponchampali - a village of Ikat weavers - for an insight into the ikat weaving technique, in which warp and sometimes weft threads are tied and dyed to form the pattern before the cloth is woven. It is believed that the ikat technique was brought to Pochampalli from Chirala, another town in Andhra Pradesh, a couple of generations ago, perhaps as early as 1915. During your visit you will learn about the ikat ‘tie dye’ process and see the weavers at work producing colourful saris, dupattas and yardage. Their use of modern synthetic dyes rather than the time-consuming and expensive traditional vegetable dyes has enabled the production of more affordable fabrics whose designs are often strongly influenced by the double ikat patola cloths traditional to Gujarat in the west. (BL)
Saturday, 28 February - Hyderabad to Bhubaneswar
This morning enjoy a special curator-led visit to the Salar Jung Museum, which houses the collection of antiques and artefacts of Mir Yousuf Ali Khan Salar Jung III. The collections include Indian Art, Middle Eastern Art, Far Eastern Art, European Art, along with a Founders gallery and a rare manuscript section. Highlights include the ‘Veiled Rebecca’, the translucent white marble statue by Bezoni, and the Arms section. Return to your hotel in time for a break for lunch before transferring to the airport for the short flight to Bhubaneswar, the capital of the state of Orissa. (BD)
Sunday, 01 March Bhubaneswar
Bhubaneswar is famous for its superb Hindu temples and this morning you will see a breathtaking example in the magnificent 11th century Lingaraj Temple, which represents the high point of Orissan style, where both sculpture and architecture have evolved in perfect harmony. Later this morning, head towards the Puri district, stopping en route at Pipli, a village of artisans renowned for their colourful appliqué work. Historically the artisans of Pipli produced a regular supply of appliquéd cloths and offering banners for the local temples and souvenir domestic deity canopies for pilgrims. Today their skilfull output of brightly-patterned cushion covers, bags, garden umbrellas, coverlets and wall hangings is primarily geared towards the tourist market.
Continue to the Puri district to see one of India’s architectural marvels, the Konark Sun Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage site remarkable for its splendid sculptures. Return to Bhubaneswar for overnight. (BL)
Monday, 02 March Bhubaneswar
Orissa is a beautiful state with a long rich tradition of handcrafts in many media, and is particularly renowned for its ikat or bhanda fabrics, mainly in cotton. Today we travel over rough roads to see ikat weavers at work in the remote village of Nuapatna which, like Pipli, has strong connections to the temples at Puri. Although the Gujarati ikat tradition is in danger of extinction, the ikat weavers of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh have flourished. The lovely cotton saris and dupattas they produce on treadle pitlooms characteristically feature fine curvilinear patterns outlined in white which are achieved by using very thin yarns and tying very small bundles of threads for dyeing. (BL)
Tuesday, 03 March - Bhubaneswar to Kolkata
After an early breakfast, transfer to the airport for your flight to Kolkata. Formerly known as Calcutta, Kolkata is largely a British creation which dates back some 300 years. It was the capital of British India until 1911, known as the ‘Jewel of the East’ in the days of the Raj. Home to four Nobel laureates – Ronald Ross, Rabindranath Tagore, Mother Teresa and Amartya Sen – Kolkata is still an important centre for trade, industry and intellectual pursuits. Many modern movements began here in art, cinema and theatre, science and industry. India’s quest for freedom also began here.
Today’s tour of Kolkata starts with a visit to the Victoria Memorial, a tribute to Queen Victoria. Inspired by the Taj Mahal, its splendid form combines British architecture and Mughal artistry. The Memorial houses a fantastic collection of rare memorabilia from Colonial days. Also visit the Marble Palace, famous for its antique collections, rare birds, paintings, and marble statues. Later, drive past Dalhousie Square, the administrative centre for British India; the General Post Office, a majestic example of Edwardian architecture, built on the site of the original Fort William; and the Writers’ Building, an imposing structure with a Corinthian façade, which houses the state government offices. Finally, there will be a brief visit to Mother Theresa’s famous Missionaries of Charity. (BD)
Wednesday, 04 March - Kolkata
Over the next two days you will gain an insight into Bengali arts at The Weavers Studio Centre for the Arts, a gallery and exhibition space set up by Darshan Shah in 1993, with a dream to build a centre for sharing knowledge and craft. “The Centre is a platform for practice, an entity for the sustenance and evolution of the rich Indian design vocabulary and traditional arts,” says Shah.
It is also used for fund raising events for the Weavers Studio Resource Centre, a non-profit trust which will house a textile gallery, a research and documentation unit, a restoration and conservation lab and provide for vocational training for craftsmen and guidance for textile research.
Over the years The Weavers Studio has also collected many old kantha pieces from late the 19th century to the early 20th century. Subject to the opening of the new Weavers Studio Resource Centre, there will also be a tour of the Centre’s collection of antique textiles, the library and its museum. During the visit you will also enjoy a lunch of traditional dishes and short cultural program with local music. (BL)
Thursday, 05 March - Kolkata to Varanasi
Depart on an excursion to a local workshop where you will see artisans working on Kantha textiles. Here you will see how the kantha is made, processed and finished. One of the workshop’s key people will take you on a tour and explain the history of kantha textiles. West Bengal (and Bangladesh) boast ancient textile traditions centred primarily on the production of transparent muslins and embroidery. The kanthas, or needleworked quilts were traditionally made for personal use and were composed of layers of discarded saris or dhotis, stitched through with simple running stitches and then embellished with surface embroidery. A large lotus medallion often graces the centre of a kantha, surrounded by a wonderful array of flowers, animals, birds and scenes from religious and everyday life.
After lunch, return to Kolkata in time to board the overnight sleeper train to Mughalsarai (near Varanasi). A packed dinner from the hotel will be provided for the train journey. (BL, packed dinner)
Friday, 06 March - Arrive Varanasi (Mughalsarai)
Arrive by train at Mughalsarai railway station (1 hour’s drive from Varanasi) at approximately 7am and transfer to Varanasi, India’s holiest Hindu city, situated on the banks of the mighty Ganges River. Enjoy a late breakfast on arrival and some time to relax before your first sightseeing excursion. This afternoon, visit the impressive Ramnagar Fort, home to the maharajas of Varanasi for 400 years. After your visit of the fort, take a ‘bajra’ boat ride from Ramnagar back to Varanasi, then witness the evening ‘aarti’. Aarti is a Hindu ritual in which lamps are presented as offerings at certain times of the day and night to invoke the gods. Return to your hotel for dinner. (BD)
Saturday, 07 March - Varanasi
Apart from carrying the distinction of being India’s most ancient pilgrimage centre, Varanasi has also been famous for its gossamer-fine cotton weaves for over 2000 years. Its weaving traditions found new splendour in the 16th century with the patronage of the Mughal emperors and Varanasi’s weavers soon became skilled at weaving silk with gold and silver thread to create sumptuous brocades. You will spend today with the silk brocade weavers of Varanasi in the narrow lanes of the old city, learning the intricacies of this time-honoured tradition. The brocades of Varamasi are among the finest produced in the subcontinent and are typically heavily ornamented with gold and silver metallic threads in the palla and borders. (BL)
Sunday, 08 March - Varanasi
Awake well before dawn this morning for a sunrise boat excursion on the holy River Ganges. See Varanasi come alive along the banks of the river as Hindu devotees bathe in the holy water, worshipping the rising sun. You will also see the holy cremation Ghats - it is believed that those who die in Varanasi are released from the cycle of reincarnation and go straight to ‘heaven’.
Return to your hotel for breakfast, then enjoy some free time until this afternoon’s excursion to Sarnath. It was here in 528 BC that the Buddha preached his first major sermon – the Dharmachakra (‘Wheel of Law’) - after gaining enlightenment. Here you will also visit the Sarnath Archaeological Museum which boasts an outstanding collection of Buddhist artefacts. The museum’s most treasured piece is the Ashokan lion capital in polished sandstone – India’s national emblem. (BD)
Monday, 09 March - Varanasi to New Delhi
This morning, visit Benares Hindu University with its wonderful Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum, renowned for one of India’s best collections of Indian paintings, covering a period from the 11th to the 20th century. Continue to the airport at about midday for your flight to New Delhi. On arrival, take a short orientation tour of New Delhi en route to your hotel. (BD)
Tuesday, 10 March - New Delhi
Today's excursion will focus on the lost professions of Old Delhi. On this very special tour, some of the residents of Old Delhi will show you their world, where many work at what can only be described as ‘professions of yesteryear’ including hand-pulled rickshaw wallahs, tonga (horse carriage) wallahs, box camera operators and movie poster artists. Today they struggle to keep their age-old professions alive as their nation races toward modernity. This evening, enjoy a special farewell dinner at one of Delhi’s finest restaurants. (BLD)
Wednesday, 11 March - Return
A free day to explore India’s capital! You may like to use the time for further sightseeing or why not explore Old Delhi’s wonderful bazaars where the narrow streets are lined with shops, whose goods including spices, cashmere shawls, embroidery, jewellery, enamels and carpets - spill out on to the footpath. As this is your day of departure, you must check out of your hotel room by midday. One or two day use rooms will be provided for freshening up this afternoon, before your departure transfer at around 7pm this evening. Late night departure for Sydney on Singapore Airlines. (B)
Thursday, 12 March - Arrive Sydney
Evening arrival in Sydney
YOUR HOTELS ****+
Chennai - GRT Grand
Tirupati - Fortune Kences
Hyderabad - Taj Banjara
Bhubaneshwar - Trident Hilton
Kolkata - Kennilworth
Varanasi - Taj Ganges
New Delhi - Jaypee Siddarth
NOTE: Tour routing and hotels may be altered for operational reasons.
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